Of
that small number, almost no one will claim they do it for
fun, and fewer still will declare the vital part alcohol
plays in their lives. As has been recently noted in this
very magazine, the number of Public Figures (our cultural
lamp posts, for good or ill) who will own up to their
drunken exploits are few, or of marginal importance. Too
many people use drunkenness as an excuse, or make
excuses for their drunkenness. Something has gone to
vinegar here in the Land of the Free.
Our so-called Founding
Fathers (where was John Hancock's mother, I ask,
with such sloppy penmanship?), usually depicted as a
gaggle of sober-minded political theorists and
high-hearted revolutionaries, were dedicated, rampant
boozers. Granted, a whole different world view guided
social discourse in the early days of our nation. Alcohol
was respected to a higher degree back then, deemed an
important aspect of society. Today it's been relegated to
the status of "pastime" or "occasionality".
The Mayflower
pitched and yawed across the Big Deep, its passengers
longing for a land where they could freely display their
beliefs outside the gaze of intrusive Kings and Courts.
The scribes of history have spin-doctored the manners and
mores of those plucky invaders, glossing over the ickier
aspects of Pilgrim Consciousness (with the matte-black
finality of a Binx gun), and marketed the remainder as a
package of bland aphorisms. As a result, the Pilgrims now
seem as clean and sterile as a Bing Crosby movie.
All most people recall
about the Pilgrims is the myth of the First Thanksgiving,
whereupon our incredibly decent and Godly forebears gave
turkey and yams to starving Indians, thereby teaching the
ignorant heathens how to make full use of the land (which
they'd only lived on for 10,0000 years, or so). The fact
of the matter is the Pilgrims would have starved to death
after rejecting food offered by the "savages," had
they not resorted to a little cannibalism. That they also
ran out of beer must surely have ruined the First
Christmas, too.
But, setting aside their
moral frailty for a moment (we shall return), Colonial
love for drink is the most telling fact glossed-over as
the Pilgrims mutated from Sectarian Hermits to Inviolable
Edifices of History. Their affinity for a good buzz is
well documented, even if most historians treat it like the
Carter's treated Brother Billy, which is to say ignore it
because it doesn't fit the concept.
The keepers of America's
past have an issue with boozing, but I ask you, is there
any difference at all between doing a thing, and doing the
identical thing while drunk? If we acknowledge the
boozedog nature of our forebears, do we somehow lessen
them? Not hardly. Given their post-Plymouth savagery, the
fact that they pounded enough liquor to stock a wedding
reception at the Kennedy compound is one thing to be said
in their favor.
Beer was the intoxicant of
choice in the Colonies, just as it had been back in
England. Colonists referred to beer as the "Good Creature
of God." They knew wine, which had its occasions, and
spirits - called, charmingly, "ardent waters" - but beer
and ale got them going, primed the Happy Pump, and
transformed shoe buckles into a seventeenth-century cousin
to Rubik's baffling Cube. They packed thousands of gallons
of beer for the voyage - twice as much beer as water, in
fact - and love for beer was one tradition from the Isles
they left intact.
About a half-second after
landfall, urgent attention was given to getting a batch of
beer on the cooker. While some folks erected shelter, and
others wandered around shooting things, a lucky few
searched for beerable plant life. Brewing skills were
prized among the Colonists, right up there with a green
thumb and a brilliant sermon (not to mention inventing
unconscionable exchange rates for wampum). Most
households brewed their own, using recipes handed down
through many generations, and a person's standing in the
community could be linked to the quality of his beverages.
Things didn't start out
very well, though, for Colonial brewers. They were
shocked - shocked! - and consternated to discover that
the "New World" (their little hunk of it, anyhow) didn't
exactly teem with quality ingredients. Refusing to be kept
from their heart's desire, they set about experimenting
with what they had at hand. If it grew - and didn't have
hair, fangs, feathers, or scales - it found its way into
their trial-and-error brew pots. These included pumpkins,
blue berries, milkweed, molasses, and various kinds of
bark. None of these, singly or mixed (oak-bark
beer.yummy), were at all satisfactory, and after many
horrific failures, a small-scale panic set in among the
populace.
"First we got cold
weather, then red-skinned pagans, then we had to eat John
Proctor, and now no ale? We know not what we did to cause
thee offense, O Lord, but if you could see your way clear
to provide a little hint we'll make sure it doesn't happen
again. Hello? Lord? Isn't this just swell. Makes a fella
wish he'd stayed in Derbyshire."
Jonesing for a frothy mug,
and having tried and rejected about every foul concoction
of the later micro-brew scene, the Colonists faced serious
choices. They could A) cease tippling, B) rely on erratic
shipments from England, or, C) they could adapt. They
chose C. It wasn't as if it was beer or nothing, after
all. They adored the stuff, sure, but beer is a rather
smallish segment of the whole Alcohol Universe. The
unavailability of ale was not a
go-home-and-kiss-the-king's-ass sort of problem. The land
around them (recently cleansed of "savages") sprouted
grains as if fertilized with God's Holy Manure. Everyone
planted grain because of its abundant
uses, and everyone knew of its delightful penchant for
fermenting into spirits. God willing, they'd be mellow,
warm-bellied, and swimmy-headed by spring.
A simple decision, yes?
Beer, spirits, wine, they all pull the cord of your
internal buzz motor, right? So what's the big deal? Just
this: the change from beer to spirits was a vital first
step in the creation of a truly American psyche.
Very few Europeans drank
hard liquor. Germans, like the English, preferred beer.
The French and Italians were tradition-bound to wine. Mead
was popular among Scandinavians (as was anything else that
killed the taste of lutefisk), and ciders fermented from
apples, dates, plums, or pomegranates, were enjoyed across
the European continent.
Standing apart from the
aleheads and juicers were Scotland and Ireland, tiny
countries, each with a profound taste for liquor. Having
been trod upon by the Romans and Anglo-Saxons for dozens
of centuries, these folks drank hard liquor to match their
hard lives. The Prince of Potables was, of course,
whiskey. Ranging from 100 to 200 proof (roughly 30% to 100
percent pure alcohol), whiskey is the 800-pound gorilla of
the tippling world. Compared to beer and wine, whiskey is
a tiger shark free-swimming through The Incredible Mr.
Limpet. It's The Godfather slap boxing with
Dude, Where's My Car?.
In the 1600s (and right up
to this very instant, actually), the Irish were considered
less worthy than the English - fifth-class people in an
empire they never asked for. As a result, their cultural
creations were largely scorned. Whiskey drinkers were
viewed as uncouth, slovenly, and unrefined. The Colonials
were somewhat hesitant about lowering themselves to the
level of the Irish, but they needed alcohol, and had all
the makings, and so went with the flow. Necessity is the
mother of sozzlement. Before very long, a party, barn
raising, wedding, or simple random Thursday, just wasn't
complete without (many) bottles of rye, scotch, or
bourbon. Rye and bourbon, derived from wheat, rye, and
corn, can lay claim to being among America's first
cultural creations. Bourbon in particular is considered
the most American of liquors.
As mentioned previously,
alcohol consumption was almost inextricable from the
larger society. For example, workers throughout the
Colonies took morning breaks around eleven. Like we might
enjoy coffee and a smoke, the Colonials took a glass of
whiskey. "Eleveners," as they were called, were key parts
of the workday in a society that knew a stiff drink made
for happy, relaxed employees. One of the first professions
to take off in the New World was the sutler, who rode
through the land with kegs of whiskey in his wagon,
selling intoxicating snorffles far and wide for a penny a
dram. (The sutler was, obviously, a precursor of the hot
dog vendor, but he sold comfort instead of tube-shaped
slaughterhouse mung.) Additionally, workers, tradesmen,
and artisans were often paid in liquor. Amounts
were standardized. "X" hours of work or completed projects
equaled "Y" bottles or casks of whiskey. In a world more
self-sufficient than ours, where people farmed or hunted
to fulfill their essential needs, what better currency
could you ask for? Wouldn't you, some days, rather have a
bottle than a wad of ugly green paper?
Sadly, as with many good
things, doom cryers scurried up from their disgruntled
burrows, saw people having a good time, and cudgeled the
party.
Beginning in the late
1700s, abstinence movements challenged 200 hundred years
of Colonial drinking custom. Early prohibitionists
apparently felt uneasy about how well boozenomics worked,
and decided to dry out the nation. Dozens of rationales
were trotted forward to justify their opinions. One group
claimed they stood for "home protection." (Sound
familiar?) Prohibitionist "unions" kept registers of the
abstemious devout, inking a "T" beside the names of those
who pledged total abstinence (and, incidentally, birthing
the word "teetotaler"). This practice bears a scary
resemblance to the data-mining project recently launched
by the Justice Department - mass acquisition of personal
information destined for use in making moral judgements
and as justification for preemptive actions against those
who won't play along. If you package all abstemious
rationales in a box, wrap it in a pretty bow, and tape a
card to the top, the card would read: "We believe that
this nation functions according to rules and moral
obligations that we understand to be true, defined
as we see fit, and followed to the letter, despite
any evidence to the contrary."
Prohibitionists, present
and past, tend to look upon booze as the Birth Canal of
All Evil. To arrive at this conclusion they have to squint
their eyes up tight and see only the negative aspects of
drunkenness (violence, addiction, etc.), and completely
ignore the good parts (camaraderie, revelry, impishness).
Intentionally remaining blind to an entire half
of any issue is an excellent definition of "irrational
thinking." Addlepated, stick-up-the-butt moralizing is a
lame and eerie social agenda. Equally repellent is that
the prohibition movement came to glisten with the slime of
racism and xenophobia. But, hey, anything to save the
children, right?
Ideas about the "way
things ought to be" are valuable, but not at the expense
of devaluing, or ignoring, the way things are. For
every horror story told against drink there exist hundreds
more celebrating glee, beauty, mysticism, and just plain
fun. If you are honest with yourself you can see
both sides of the tap handle.
America was erected on
pillars of empty kegs and whiskey burps. Drunkenness
itself has a 20,000- year lineage, complete with thousands
of customs and rituals that span history and the globe.
The actions and accidents of the few should not, and
cannot, outweigh the joys of the multitude. For all the
questionable - and genuinely foul - tenets espoused by the
Founders, they still somehow managed to lay the groundwork
for a pluralist society. The enemy of pluralism is
needless stricture. Its allies are those who take freedom
seriously, and who
dance
to the bass-beat of 100 proof disobedience. Prohibitionist
movements (including our grotesquely shrill anti-drug
campaigns) play shotgun politics - the weapon is too big
for the target. They take aim, indiscriminately blast
away, and if some innocent blood is shed, well, that's
just what happens. It is what happens when the
voices of the loudest minority are given the most
attention.
Drink proudly, friends.
You are among the anointed. You are a lock pick, and a sax
solo. When you laugh the sound recapitulates the instant
before the Big Bang. To paraphrase Socrates: The
under-realized life is not worth living.
Cheers.
-Richard Howell English
From The Modern Drunkard Magazine |